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Beneath the surface of Japan’s most iconic garment, the kimono, lies an equally rich tradition of undergarments, most notably the juban and dounuki. These under-kimono garments were not merely functional; they were often beautifully crafted, reflecting the same aesthetic principles and attention to detail as the outer layers. While hidden from view during everyday wear, the juban and dounuki played a crucial role in both the structure and the appearance of a complete kimono ensemble.

Juban: The Standard Under-Kimono

The juban (襦袢), also known as nagajuban when referring to the full-length type, is the most common form of under-kimono. It is worn directly beneath the kimono to protect it from body oils, perspiration, and friction. The juban typically mirrors the shape of the kimono but is slightly shorter and made from lighter materials such as silk, cotton, or synthetic fibers. It is usually unlined or only lightly lined, especially for summer wear.

Although not intended to be seen in its entirety, the juban is often partially visible at the collar and sleeves. For this reason, great care has traditionally been taken in selecting or coordinating the visible areas. The collar (han-eri), which is detachable and easily washed or replaced, is often white for formal occasions but can also feature embroidery or colored silk in more casual settings.

Historically, juban were often given as wedding gifts or were part of a dowry, and could be highly decorative. Some vintage examples feature vibrant patterns, humorous or playful motifs, or even Western-influenced Art Deco designs from the early 20th century. Silk juban from the Taisho and early Showa periods often reveal a hidden layer of textile artistry, combining playful exuberance with careful craftsmanship.

There are also variations such as the hanjuban (half-length juban), worn primarily in warmer months, which covers only the upper body and may be paired with a separate lower garment such as a wrap skirt or susoyoke. This modularity allowed wearers to adjust their under-layers seasonally or according to occasion.

Dounuki: A Predecessor to the Modern Juban

The dounuki (胴抜き) is an older and somewhat less well-known form of under-kimono, which was popular particularly during the Edo period (1603–1868) and into the Taisho era. Its name refers to its most notable construction feature: the middle of the torso (dō) is unlined or made with lighter fabric. This adaptation offered greater comfort and mobility, especially when worn under the layered and heavy kimono styles of the time.

Structurally, the dounuki is often more formal than a modern juban and was sometimes constructed using remnants or cut pieces of luxurious fabrics. A typical dounuki consists of a decorative upper body and sleeves—sometimes featuring richly dyed or woven silk—and a contrasting, often plain cotton or silk torso section. This practical tailoring reflects the Japanese sensibility of balancing elegance with function, especially in garments that were concealed beneath outer layers.

In samurai households or among the merchant elite, a dounuki might be tailored with high-quality textiles in the visible areas (sleeves and collar), while economizing in the body area where the fabric would not be seen. Thus, the garment reflects the broader Edo-period values of restrained ostentation—fine taste revealed discreetly, rather than ostentatiously displayed.

By the late 19th century, as kimono styles became less layered and lighter in weight, the use of dounuki gradually declined, replaced by the more standardized and comfortable juban. However, historical examples of dounuki survive in museum collections and private holdings, offering important insight into the complexity and layering of Edo- and Meiji-era dress.

Function, Fashion, and Identity

Both juban and dounuki served more than utilitarian purposes. They helped structure the silhouette of the outer kimono, provided warmth or ventilation depending on the season, and offered an opportunity for personal expression, particularly in the collar and sleeve linings. While outer kimono often conformed to the formal dress codes of age, class, or occasion, the undergarments allowed for subtle individualism.

Moreover, the care taken in selecting and coordinating these inner layers reflects a central tenet of Japanese aesthetics: beauty is not merely about what is seen, but what is known to be present. The inner beauty of a well-made juban or dounuki—even if it remained largely unseen—spoke to the wearer’s refinement and taste.

In modern times, while kimono are worn less frequently, vintage juban remain popular among collectors and are occasionally repurposed into contemporary fashion or interior textiles. Their vibrant linings and unexpected designs often surprise those unfamiliar with the hidden world of kimono underlayers.

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