This haori presents a striking interplay of bold modernist rhythm and refined traditional symbolism. The primary design features flowing tatewaku (rising steam) motifs in vivid red that undulate vertically across the deep black ground. These lines give the textile a dynamic, almost kinetic energy, recalling the abstract visualvocabulary of Art Deco, which was highly influential in Japan during this period.

Interwoven with the tatewaku are spider chrysanthemum (kumo-giku) motifs executed in shimmering gold and silver thread, layered over larger rinzu-woven chrysanthemums visible in the ground weave. The chrysanthemum, long associated with longevity, autumn, and imperial symbolism, here takes on an almost ethereal quality, its delicate radiating lines evoking both natural forms and bursts of light reminiscent of fireworks. The doubling of motifs—woven rinzu beneath and embroidered highlights above—creates a sense of depth and complexity, a hallmark of Japanese textile artistry.

The juxtaposition of bold red waves with the subtle sparkle of metallic chrysanthemums demonstrates how traditional motifs were reimagined through a modern design lens. The overall effect recalls both the linear dynamism of Art Deco and the Japanese Rinpa school’s stylized natural forms, bridging past and present.

Measurements: 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and standing at approximately 33 inches (84 cm) in height

This artwork is featured on page 229 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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