This remarkable haori from the interwar period represents a bold departure from traditional Japanese textile aesthetics, embodying the experimental spirit of Japan's modernist movement while maintaining deep roots in classical craft traditions. The garment features large-scale yukira (snowflake) motifs created through shibori resist-dyeing techniques, rendered in vibrant golden yellow and burnt orange against a striking turquoise ground. These oversized circular forms demonstrate the influence of international Art Deco sensibilities, with their graphic simplicity and bold color contrasts reflecting the period's fascination with geometric abstraction and industrial design principles.
The snowflake motifs carry traditional associations with winter's crystalline purity and the ephemeral beauty of nature's geometric patterns, yet their treatment here suggests a more contemporary interpretation aligned with emerging modernist aesthetics. The irregular, organic edges created by the shibori process introduce an element of controlled spontaneity that speaks to the Japanese appreciation for wabi-sabi—finding beauty in imperfection and the marks of process. This juxtaposition between the geometric intention of the snowflake pattern and the fluid, unpredictable results of resist-dyeing creates a dynamic tension characteristic of Japan's cultural negotiations between tradition and modernity during this transformative period.
The seldom-used kawari-ori (change weave) base fabric adds an additional layer of sophistication through its three-dimensional bamboo motifs, creating subtle textural variations that interact with the bold dyed patterns. This technical virtuosity, combined with the single dyed family crest, positions the garment within the realm of luxury experimentation—likely created for a patron with both the means to commission such innovative work and the cultural confidence to wear such a dramatically modern reinterpretation of traditional forms.
Its measurements span 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stand at 38 inches (97 cm) in height.
This artwork is featured on page 329 of Art Kimono: Aesthetic Revelations of Japan, 1905-1960. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.