This ceremonial uchikake is constructed from heavy shusu satin silk, creating a lustrous surface that would have reflected light dramatically during ceremonial occasions, while its potential function as funeral attire speaks to the Japanese aesthetic principle of finding beauty even in life's most solemn moments. The five couched embroidered mon (family crests) positioned at chest, back, and sleeves identify this as the highest level of formal wear, with the gold metallic threads creating subtle but unmistakable markers of status and ceremony against the deep black ground.

The garment's most remarkable feature lies in its extraordinary lining, which resembles brocade-like damask in a warm coral or salmon tone, creating one of the most sophisticated examples of ura-omo (lining-as-display) aesthetic philosophy. This hidden luxury exemplifies the Japanese concept of iki - refined elegance that reveals itself through subtle, almost secret beauty rather than ostentatious display. The contrast between the solemn black exterior and the rich, life-affirming interior color creates a powerful symbolic dialogue between the public face of mourning and the private celebration of life's continuity, reflecting the complex Buddhist understanding of death as transformation rather than termination.

The technical execution demonstrates the extraordinary skill of Meiji period craftspeople, who maintained traditional hand-construction methods while adapting to new social structures and ceremonial needs. The weight and drape of the shusu silk would have created imposing, sculptural silhouettes appropriate for the most formal occasions, while the couched embroidery technique ensured that the family crests would remain raised and visible even when the garment was worn over multiple layers. This uchikake represents not merely clothing but a form of wearable architecture that transformed its wearer into a living embodiment of family honor, cultural continuity, and the aesthetic sophistication that characterized Japan's complex relationship with tradition during the rapid modernization of the Meiji era.

it measures 49 inches (124 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 60 inches (152 cm) in height.

This artwork is featured on pages 400-401 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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