This meisen silk kimono showcases a sophisticated design that draws from classical Heian period (794-1185) court imagery, reinterpreted through the modernist lens of the 1920s-1930s. The circular motifs are stylized Heian cart wheels (kuruma), an aristocratic symbol that evokes the elegant ox-drawn carriages used by court nobility. These golden and cream-colored wheel medallions are scattered across the textile in a rhythmic pattern, their spoked designs reduced to elegant geometric abstractions that speak to both historical refinement and contemporary Art Deco sensibilities.
The diagonal grid elements represent checkered screens, likely inspired by kicho—the portable folding screens used in Heian court architecture to create intimate spaces and provide privacy for aristocratic women. These screens, reimagined with geometric patterns, have been transformed into bold diagonal bands that sweep across the kimono's surface in earthy browns and muted greens. The integration of these classical motifs with the angular, intersecting composition reflects the period's fascination with combining traditional Japanese cultural symbols with modern design principles.
The overall effect creates a textile that functions as both historical homage and contemporary fashion statement. The metallic silver thread insertions would have enhanced this duality, adding luminous highlights that emphasized the wheels' spokes and the screens' geometric structure. This design approach exemplifies the meisen technique's ability to democratize luxury motifs, making court imagery accessible through innovative weaving technology while maintaining the sophisticated cultural associations of Heian aristocratic life—themes of mobility, privacy, and refined aesthetic sensibility that resonated with Japan's increasingly modern urban population.
It measures 49 inches (125 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 60 inches (152 cm) in height. Additionally, there's a small repair on the front lapel, as visible in the gallery image.