This fascinating han-juban (short under-kimono) presents a compelling study in the interplay between authentic craft techniques and industrial innovation during Japan's rapid modernization period. The garment demonstrates a sophisticated understanding of both traditional shibori resist-dyeing methods and emerging textile printing technologies, creating a harmonious composition that bridges artisanal and mechanized production. The sleeves showcase genuine shibori work on silk, featuring undulating bands of deep purple alternating with textured stripes in sage green, coral, and cream that create a rhythmic wave-like pattern reminiscent of flowing water or wind-swept grain fields. This technique produces the characteristic soft, organic edges and subtle color variations that only hand-controlled resist-dyeing can achieve.
In striking contrast, the cotton body employs faux-shibori printing to simulate the appearance of traditional kanoko (fawn spot) shibori on a vibrant red-orange ground. The printed pattern creates geometric formations of white dots that suggest the tied and bound resist patterns of authentic shibori, but with the precision and uniformity possible only through industrial printing methods. This juxtaposition reflects the pragmatic approach of the Taisho era, when Japanese textile producers sought to balance reverence for traditional techniques with the economic necessities of modern life. The use of different materials and methods within a single garment speaks to changing social structures and the democratization of decorative textiles.
The overall aesthetic demonstrates influences from both Art Nouveau's organic flowing forms, visible in the sleeve patterns, and the emerging modernist preference for geometric abstraction, seen in the body's dotted motifs. This under-kimono exemplifies the creative tensions of early 20th-century Japan, where traditional craft knowledge was being simultaneously preserved, transformed, and challenged by industrial innovation
In very good condition overall, although the removable collar shows some dark smudging. It measures 46 inches (117 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and has a height of 27 inches (69 cm).