This silk woman's robe from the late Edo Period is exceptionally refined and laden with traditional auspicious motifs like pine trees, plum trees, flying cranes, and minogame turtles. These symbols represent longevity and happiness. The base cloth showcases a complex damask or brocade weave, evident in the detail images. The garment illustrates painting on silk with 'bokashi'—a gradual shade dying method—accentuated with brush strokes, both dry and less dry, along with embroideries. Its inner lining is a beni red sha silk, lightly padded between the inner and outer patterned layers, lending a slight overall stiffness to the garment. It measures 50 inches (127 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and stands at 59 inches (150 cm) in height.

This uchikake, worn by noble or warrior family ladies on formal occasions until the end of the Edo period, distinguishes itself as a rarer style with patterns concentrated below the waist. In impeccable near-mint condition, it features one subtle 2cm silk split within the patterned area, challenging to locate. The robe showcases nature scenery achieved through free-hand painting, yuzen-work, gold-thread couching, and simple embroidery. Its artwork is exceptionally sophisticated, perhaps the most intricate and refined seen in a Japanese garment. The presence of five formal family crests signifies the wearer's high social standing. The rare family crest, an amalgamation of a folded fan ('ogi' or 'sensu') outer motif and a square 'mesh' ('meyui') central portion, lacks inclusion in John Dower's extensive crest publication.

Extremely light in weight, possibly less than 500 grams, owing to its exceptionally fine inner and outer silk layers, this subtle uchikake doesn't immediately demand attention. Instead, its brilliance and subtlety gradually reveal themselves over time. Despite its near-perfect condition, this delicate uchikake isn't suitable for wear due to the inherent fragility of its fine silk. As an artwork for display, it remains flawless.

This artwork is featured on pages 364-367 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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