This boy's silk miyamairi kimono showcases the legendary figure of Kikujido, the Chrysanthemum Boy, rendered through a sophisticated combination of yuzen dyeing, freehand painting, sagara embroidery, and metallic thread work. The garment displays the characteristic T-shaped silhouette of traditional Japanese formal wear, with its most striking feature being the elaborate pictorial narrative that spans across the sleeves and body of the kimono.

The artistic composition centers on the figure of Kikujido, depicted as a young man in flowing robes positioned among stylized clouds and chrysanthemum motifs. The color palette is predominantly monochromatic, utilizing subtle gradations of black, gray, and cream tones that create a dreamlike, ethereal quality reminiscent of classical Japanese ink wash paintings. The chrysanthemums, which are central to the Kikujido legend, are rendered with remarkable detail - some appearing as full blooms while others are suggested through more abstract, flowing forms that seem to dance across the textile surface.

The technical execution demonstrates the height of Meiji period textile artistry, where traditional Japanese craftsmanship intersected with new influences and techniques. The yuzen dyeing technique allows for the subtle color gradations and fine pictorial details, while the sagara embroidery adds dimensional texture to key elements. The overall aesthetic evokes the refined sensibilities of the Rinpa school of Japanese decorative arts, with its emphasis on natural motifs, asymmetrical composition, and the integration of pictorial and decorative elements. The flowing, organic forms and the way the design wraps around the garment's structure also suggest influences from Art Nouveau, which was gaining international prominence during this period and finding expression in Japanese decorative arts of the early 20th century.

This ceremonial kimono is relatively large, measuring 35 inches (89 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and 45 inches (114 cm) in height. It's a set of four inner kimonos, including three inner layers, making it quite heavy when worn together.

The legend of Kikujido, rooted in ancient Chinese history during the Zhou dynasty, tells the story of a young attendant favored by the Emperor Mu. Jealousy among the emperor's court led to Kikujido's banishment. Despite this, Kikujido's dedication and the sacred words he received from the emperor before leaving led him to an abundant valley filled with chrysanthemums. There, he spent his days in communion with nature, inscribing sacred words on chrysanthemum leaves and sending them downstream, offering peace to those who found them.

The kimono embodies this narrative through its intricate design, capturing the essence of Kikujido's story and reflecting the profound journey and symbolism associated with it.

This artwork is featured on pages 276-279 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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