This rare ceremonial boy's hanten  crafted from lustrous shusu silk, features intricate metallic-thread couched embroidery and heavy silk embroidery in golden hues against a deep black ground, depicting a dynamic natural scene centered on ayu (sweetfish) navigating turbulent waters around jagged rocks. On the back, the composition unfolds with a cluster of stylized rocks emerging from swirling waves at the lower center, rendered with textured, layered threads to convey rugged stone surfaces and foaming crests, while sleek ayu fish glide through the undulating water lines below, their forms elegantly elongated and highlighted with metallic sheen for a sense of fluid motion; above this, a pair of interlinked circular emblems with ornate, swirling borders serves as a crest-like symbol for an associated group or town. The front reveals subtle wave motifs along the hem, mirroring the back's aquatic theme, and the collar bears embroidered Japanese characters in a stylized script representing the name of that same group or locale, adding a personalized, heraldic touch to the garment's ceremonial purpose.

Evoking the transitional aesthetics of the Meiji period, this piece blends traditional Edo-era embroidery techniques with subtle influences from emerging Western realism in its detailed rendering of natural elements, while the stylized waves and fish recall the fluid, expressive lines of ukiyo-e prints, such as those by Hokusai, capturing ephemeral beauty in everyday motifs. The ayu sweetfish carry profound symbolism in Japanese culture, embodying perseverance and determination as they are known for swimming upstream against strong currents, often representing youthful resilience and the overcoming of obstacles—apt for a boy's ceremonial attire; the rocks symbolize steadfastness and endurance amid the transient flow of water, which itself evokes life's impermanence and the power of nature, themes rooted in Zen philosophy and seasonal festivals, making the hanten not only a garment but a talismanic expression of cultural values during a time of rapid modernization.

Measuring 37 inches (94 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and standing at 34 inches (86 cm) tall

This artwork is featured on pages 426-427 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

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